I just got back from Berlin, where four days were just enough to get a grasp of a city that was broke, bombed, divided and reunified – all in less than a century. Today, the German capital is an intriguing reflection of its troubled history, mixed with an experimental culture and easygoing vibe.
Going straight to the East Side Gallery meant I was hooked from the start. Having spent most of last year studying the Cold War, I grew even more curious about what became the symbol of the East-West conflict. The 1.3 km long stretch of the Berlin Wall by the Spree river now consists of 105 open air paintings, which convey the emotional roller coaster that followed 28 years of division. What was life like in the Cold War era? How did the Wall last so long? These are some of the other themes illustrated on the Wall. I just wish I knew German so I could understand all the inscriptions. Instead, I had to rely heavily on both my imagination and the Lonely Planet guidebook – I have used other LP guides before, but this one is particularly handy, especially the suggested walks and food tips.
East Side Gallery
We knew the food wasn’t going to blow our minds when we sat down for lunch at Pirates Berlin (the name says it all), but the burger really was bad. Fortunately, the glorious outdoor area made up for the disappointment – I desperately needed to feel the sunshine on my face. Alexanderplatz, our next stop, is kind of a mess, with all its remnants of the communist era, new hotels and shopping centres.
View from Pirates Berlin restaurant
But that’s what makes Berlin interesting rather than aesthetically beautiful. There’s this urge to move forward – much of the surrounding area is undergoing construction – set against decades of turbulent history, with the TV tower (get there early if you don’t want to wait all day to enjoy the view) standing as one of the most symbolic examples of the GDR’s attempts to show of strength in the 60s. And throughout the city you come across numerous buildings that survived World War II but still carry its scars, the bullet holes from the Battle of Berlin.
Berliner Dom in the sun
Still craving the last rays of sunshine and having slept a mere 4 hours, it felt great to just lounge on the Lustgarten by the Berliner Dom. If it wasn’t for the excellent Discover Berlin tour the next day, I would have never imagined that I was lying on what used to be a huge square where Hitler staged some of his frantic speeches and military parades.
Jim, our eloquent guide, walked us through most of the sights in the city centre, and, as good storytellers do, he kept surprising us with quirky details and historical facts that made our trip that more special. From the Nazi book-burning campaign in 1933 – symbolised by a powerful memorial on Bebelplatz – to the controversy surrounding the Holocaust Memorial – an abstract structure that leaves it up to each individual to interpret it – the 4-hour tour is an eye-opening experience that I can’t recommend enough, especially if you’re a newcomer.
Perhaps even more than with other places, understanding Berlin requires hearing from someone who knows the city like the back of their hand. And, as a wandering tourist, context always helps to make sense of what you’re looking at. If you find yourself there, keep an open mind, think about the dramatic changes and transformation the city underwent and what Berliners had to go through.
If you end up in the Checkpoint Charlie area or at Gendarmenmarkt square with an empty stomach, like we did, Augustiner is a good lunch choice. While you shouldn’t expect the most elaborate menu, good beer – Augustiner Bräu is Munich’s oldest independent brewery – and big (and cheap) portions are guaranteed. I went for the classic sausages and devoured an amazing apple strudel after that. But my favourite meal in Berlin was anything but German, and yes, it was fast food. Just thinking about the fresh burrito from Dolores makes my mouth water. The juices are great, too. And since we’re on a budget food roll, Edeka supermarket’s croissants and other pastries make a pretty good breakfast.
Lunch at Augustiner
There is so much to choose from as far as museums go, and not just on the Museum Island. If archeology and monumental buildings from ancient empires are your thing, head to the Pergamon museum. If you’d rather gaze at the world-famous bust of queen Nefertiti and an extensive Egyptian collection, then the Neues museum is for you. I personally regret going to the Hamburger Bahnhof museum, since most of the artworks on display were too abnormal for me to comprehend why one would call it art (i.e. an installation that looks like an abandoned construction site). It’s an unpredictable place since the collections change frequently.
I should have gone to the museum Berggruen instead, where there is plenty of Picasso, Matisse and Dalí. Across the street from the Berggruen is Charlottenburg Palace, erected in the late 17th century as the summer residence of Sophie Charlotte, the first queen of Prussia. It’s worth going inside if you have time, but I wouldn’t call it a must. I couldn’t stop thinking that the gardens must make the perfect picnic spot in the summer.
You will inevitably experience the street art culture if you go to Berlin, but for a more in-depth look I suggest you walk around Kreuzberg, which is where you’ll find many of artist Blu’s murals, such as Handcuffs, East and West and the disturbing Pink Man. It is also one of the wildest neighbourhoods at night. I loved sipping mojitos like there was no tomorrow at Das Hotel, a rustic cocktail bar on Mariannenstraße. It can get a bit too smokey, but that’s Berlin.
Hackescher Markt walk
Some final travel tips: if you’re looking for a place to leave your luggage on your last day, you can lift that weight off your shoulders by using the lockers at Alexanderplatz station for 3-4€. And while it is tempting to board the underground ticketless, since there are no gates to get in and out of the trains, we did see the controllers a couple of times (40€ fine, FYI). Plus, the all-day ticket is really not that expensive compared to other cities. The best time of the year to visit Berlin is in late Spring and Summer as you’ll spend most of your time outdoors. Finally, and if I get a chance to go back, I’ll rent a bike to ride along what remains of the Wall and explore the city, district by district.
Have you been to Berlin? What did you like the most? Feel free to share your thoughts with me in the comment section below.
THE VIEW FROM BEYOND 