Understanding Berlin

I just got back from Berlin, where four days were just enough to get a grasp of a city that was broke, bombed, divided and reunified – all in less than a century. Today, the German capital is an intriguing reflection of its troubled history, mixed with an experimental culture and easygoing vibe.

Going straight to the East Side Gallery meant I was hooked from the start. Having spent most of last year studying the Cold War, I grew even more curious about what became the symbol of the East-West conflict. The 1.3 km long stretch of the Berlin Wall by the Spree river now consists of 105 open air paintings, which convey the emotional roller coaster that followed 28 years of division. What was life like in the Cold War era? How did the Wall last so long? These are some of the other themes illustrated on the Wall. I just wish I knew German so I could understand all the inscriptions. Instead, I had to rely heavily on both my imagination and the Lonely Planet guidebook – I have used other LP guides before, but this one is particularly handy, especially the suggested walks and food tips.

East Side Gallery

We knew the food wasn’t going to blow our minds when we sat down for lunch at Pirates Berlin (the name says it all), but the burger really was bad. Fortunately, the glorious outdoor area made up for the disappointment – I desperately needed to feel the sunshine on my face. Alexanderplatz, our next stop, is kind of a mess, with all its remnants of the communist era, new hotels and shopping centres.

View from Pirates Berlin restaurant

But that’s what makes Berlin interesting rather than aesthetically beautiful. There’s this urge to move forward – much of the surrounding area is undergoing construction – set against decades of turbulent history, with the TV tower (get there early if you don’t want to wait all day to enjoy the view) standing as one of the most symbolic examples of the GDR’s attempts to show of strength in the 60s. And throughout the city you come across numerous buildings that survived World War II but still carry its scars, the bullet holes from the Battle of Berlin.

Berliner Dom in the sun

Still craving the last rays of sunshine and having slept a mere 4 hours, it felt great to just lounge on the Lustgarten by the Berliner Dom. If it wasn’t for the excellent Discover Berlin tour the next day, I would have never imagined that I was lying on what used to be a huge square where Hitler staged some of his frantic speeches and military parades.

Jim, our eloquent guide, walked us through most of the sights in the city centre, and, as good storytellers do, he kept surprising us with quirky details and historical facts that made our trip that more special. From the Nazi book-burning campaign in 1933 – symbolised by a powerful memorial on Bebelplatz – to the controversy surrounding the Holocaust Memorial – an abstract structure that leaves it up to each individual to interpret it – the 4-hour tour is an eye-opening experience that I can’t recommend enough, especially if you’re a newcomer.

Perhaps even more than with other places, understanding Berlin requires hearing from someone who knows the city like the back of their hand. And, as a wandering tourist, context always helps to make sense of what you’re looking at. If you find yourself there, keep an open mind, think about the dramatic changes and transformation the city underwent and what Berliners had to go through.

If you end up in the Checkpoint Charlie area or at Gendarmenmarkt square with an empty stomach, like we did, Augustiner is a good lunch choice. While you shouldn’t expect the most elaborate menu, good beer – Augustiner Bräu is Munich’s oldest independent brewery – and big (and cheap) portions are guaranteed. I went for the classic sausages and devoured an amazing apple strudel after that. But my favourite meal in Berlin was anything but German, and yes, it was fast food. Just thinking about the fresh burrito from Dolores makes my mouth water. The juices are great, too. And since we’re on a budget food roll, Edeka supermarket’s croissants and other pastries make a pretty good breakfast.

Lunch at Augustiner

There is so much to choose from as far as museums go, and not just on the Museum Island. If archeology and monumental buildings from ancient empires are your thing, head to the Pergamon museum. If you’d rather gaze at the world-famous bust of queen Nefertiti and an extensive Egyptian collection, then the Neues museum is for you. I personally regret going to the Hamburger Bahnhof museum, since most of the artworks on display were too abnormal for me to comprehend why one would call it art (i.e. an installation that looks like an abandoned construction site). It’s an unpredictable place since the collections change frequently.

I should have gone to the museum Berggruen instead, where there is plenty of Picasso, Matisse and Dalí. Across the street from the Berggruen is Charlottenburg Palace, erected in the late 17th century as the summer residence of Sophie Charlotte, the first queen of Prussia. It’s worth going inside if you have time, but I wouldn’t call it a must. I couldn’t stop thinking that the gardens must make the perfect picnic spot in the summer.

You will inevitably experience the street art culture if you go to Berlin, but for a more in-depth look I suggest you walk around Kreuzberg, which is where you’ll find many of artist Blu’s murals, such as Handcuffs, East and West and the disturbing Pink Man. It is also one of the wildest neighbourhoods at night. I loved sipping mojitos like there was no tomorrow at Das Hotel, a rustic cocktail bar on Mariannenstraße. It can get a bit too smokey, but that’s Berlin.

Hackescher Markt walk

Some final travel tips: if you’re looking for a place to leave your luggage on your last day, you can lift that weight off your shoulders by using the lockers at Alexanderplatz station for 3-4€. And while it is tempting to board the underground ticketless, since there are no gates to get in and out of the trains, we did see the controllers a couple of times (40€ fine, FYI). Plus, the all-day ticket is really not that expensive compared to other cities. The best time of the year to visit Berlin is in late Spring and Summer as you’ll spend most of your time outdoors. Finally, and if I get a chance to go back, I’ll rent a bike to ride along what remains of the Wall and explore the city, district by district.

Have you been to Berlin? What did you like the most? Feel free to share your thoughts with me in the comment section below.

Paris for the weekend

We arrived in Paris on a cold sunny morning. I was a bit too excited about travelling from London’s Kings Cross to central Paris so easily – just two hours and 15 minutes. The Eurostar celebrates its 20th anniversary this year, but as a newbie to the high-speed train I found it truly satisfying to avoid the usual airport hassle in such comfortable fashion.

A few minutes after getting off at Gare du Nord we had already laid eyes on Notre-Dame, and sat down for brunch at Café Saint-Régis on île Saint-Louis, one of two natural islands gracing the Seine. This old school bistro was recommended by a Paris-obsessed friend, whose food and drink tips sent us straight to the right places, most of time anyway. I can’t comment on the rest of the menu, but the perfectly cooked eggs Benedict with smoked salmon and the coffee made for the perfect start to the weekend. And while I did my best to at least order in French, which is embarrassing when you studied French for five years in high school, the english-friendly staff was a plus.

Unable to check into our tiny Airbnb apartment in Châtelet – it was before 2pm but still, a bit annoying – we headed to the Centre Pompidou to check out the permanent collection. If you’re a modern art lover, make sure the gigantic six-floor centre is on your must-see list. There’s plenty of Léger, Picasso and Kandinsky, thanks to a large donation from the latter’s wife.

We may have accidentally ended up in the Surrealism and the Object exhibit, and couldn’t help having a laugh since it contains a lot of unimaginable sex-themed sculptures, such as Hans Bellmer’s La Poupée. Sadly, the major Henri Cartier-Bresson retrospective showcase only opened five days later. Can I just point out how good it is to be under 25 as an EU citizen in Paris? Most of the museums and other monuments (i.e. Arc de Triomph) are free.

After we got over the shock of having the toilet outside the studio – “quaint Parisian style”, as our host puts it – a flavourless crepe and an insanely expensive glass of milk (3.40€) at Les Enfants de la Cuisine followed. Dinner with friends was at Hotel du Nord at Le Marais, recommended by the same friend. Part of me was dreading this was one of those trendy restaurants that cares more about the atmosphere and the decor than the food itself, but I was wrong – the main course, wine and dessert were great. This made the birthday boy, the reason why we hopped on the shiny train to Paris, pretty happy.

Day two kicked off at the Louvre, where three hours were just enough to get through the highlights. I could stare at Psyche Revived by Cupid’s Kiss or get lost in the romanticism of Delacroix’s Liberty Leading the People forever. And I was blown away by Mona Lisa’s light and the complexity of its composition, but profusely annoyed with the idiots taking selfies with the painting, or ruining everyone’s experience with their camera flash.

I hope we burned part of the calorie bomb we ate for lunch going all the way up to the Sacrê-Coeur, which sits on the majestic hill of Montmartre, overlooking the city. I loved all the clichés, from being surrounded by creperies to the young man playing the accordion on the street. Our mission impossible to see Paris in three days prevented us from spending a decent amount of time there. So next up were Les Invalides, just a quick glance as the heavy wind blew in our faces, and of course we took the standard picture by the Eiffel Tower. Exhausted, we called it a night after a couple of really bad mojitos on Rue Oberkampf, some cheese and saucisson. I would live in that city just for the food.

The best thing to do in Paris really is to just keep walking and get lost, immersed in its cafes, the 19th century architecture and even the arrogant Parisian charm. That happened on Sunday morning, as we crossed the Pont de l’Archevêché – most commonly known as Lovelock Bridge as it’s so impossibly covered in padlocks – we ended up going all the way up to the Panthéon. I personally don’t think it’s a must-see, but having ended up there, I quite enjoyed swinging by – and again, it was free. The fact that this was an off-season getaway was also blissful – less queues and not a chaotic weekend overall.

Some Parisian friends took us to brunch number two at the very busy Café Crème, walking distance from République square. We stuffed ourselves with the all-inclusive 18€ menu, starting with a ton of bread and croissants, moving on to the eggs (Benedict or however you like), pancakes or fruit salad, AND you can drink as much coffee and orange juice as you want. There was still time to climb over 280 steps to see the equally spaced streets streaming out of the Arc de Triomph like a star, and then down the Champs-Elysées, before picking up our luggage from the free cloakroom of the Centre Pompidou. I like the museum even more for that.

I left the city of light reluctantly and with an empty wallet, despite the fact that I was there for less than 72 hours. We didn’t go to Versailles, we didn’t see Monet’s water lilies at the Musée de l’Orangerie, and we didn’t go the Shakespeare and Company bookshop or to the Lafayette galleries. But there is going to be a next time soon, surely.

Photography exhibitions in London you shouldn’t miss

I’m used to the endless cultural offer in London, but this time I’m finding it particularly hard to keep up with the amount of good (and mostly free!) photography exhibitions. From emerging talent to iconic Hollywood portraits, I’ve been catching up and, if you’re in town, so should you.

The Best of Terry O’Neill   

Frank Sinatra, stunt double and bodyguards walk along the Miami boardwalk to the set of The Lady in Cement (Picture: Terry O’Neill)

The Little Black Gallery in Chelsea is currently showcasing Terry O’Neill’s most celebrated photographs. The retrospective charters the career of the iconic British photographer who rose to fame in the 1960s with his intimate celebrity snaps, from Faye Dunham lounging by a pool at the Beverly Hills Hotel after winning an Oscar – the only colour photo on display out of 25 – to a “zonked out” David Bowie posing with a huge hound. But you can’t fit a lifelong career into a small gallery, meaning you won’t find many of his great pictures here, including one I love from Clint Eastwood reading the paper between takes.

We went on a road trip

This summer I went on a road trip in the US with the family. Our first stop was America’s birthplace, Philadelphia, a city brimming with history and culture. Los Angeles was next, and from there we drove all the way up to San Francisco. California’s Pacific Coast Highway provided much of the insanely beautiful views, and our last stop was the incredible Sequoia National Park. These are some of the photographs I took along the way.

Syria crisis: all eyes on Obama

As international leaders meet in Saint Petersburg for a G20 summit, the world awaits to see what, if anything, will be done about the crisis in Syria. The pressure is on for Obama, as the US president continues to push for military intervention, while Putin has threatened to send a missile shield to Syria if the US goes ahead without the green light from the UN.

It is an increasingly grim scenario, with the UK Parliament shutting the door on intervention, China joining Russia in the opposition stand, and Putin standing his ground against military action. The Russian president, who’s hosting the summit, first ignored the allegation that Assad forces carried out a chemical weapons attack on August 21, and has since warned that any act without the approval of the UN would be an act of “aggression”.

10 days in NYC

I’ll always go back to New York City. I’m so fascinated by the different neighbourhoods, the unbelievable cultural offer, the fast pace life and the people you meet there. This time we did the usual sightseeing but also delved into the local experience and went to some of the places where New Yorkers go, eat and have fun. Here’s my attempt to share some bits of 10 amazing days in the city that never sleeps.

Times Square in the rain

Top 3 Portuguese summer festivals 2012

Summer is almost here and what better way to start planning it than choosing which  music festival to go to? I suggest you have a look at Portugal’s festival scene, which has improved a lot over the last few years and ensured there is something to suit all tastes. It’s a great opportunity to enjoy great music and indulge in the sun. And, best of all, tickets are much cheaper than most European festivals.

Optimus Alive!12 (July 13-15)

Christian Louboutin at the Design Museum

A new retrospective exhibition at the Design Museum in London celebrates the career of the Parisian shoe designer Christian Louboutin. From spiked stilettos to lace up boots and studded trainers, this magical journey into the designer’s personal archive reveals his unusual sources of inspiration, his love for traditional craftsmanship and attention to femininity.

For the past 20 years, Louboutin has been pushing the boundaries of shoe design, presenting us with some of the most  creative and glorious – but very expensive – shoes fashion has ever seen, easily identified by the iconic shiny red soles. Feathers, spikes, flowers, pom-poms, diamonds – anything is possible when he creates shoes. And judging by the man who says “every woman wants to be a showgirl”, I knew this would be no ordinary exhibition.

Secret London: five special places

London has so much to offer that we sometimes forget to explore the less obvious and often far more interesting places. This happens to me all the time and I’ve been living in London for almost three years. I wanted to share this Top 5 with those who want to go beyond the touristic spots and discover some of the city’s secret places.

1. Neal’s Yard

Tucked away between Covent Garden and the busy streets of Seven Dials, Neal’s Yard (pictured above) stays completely unnoticed if you don’t know it’s there – and I’m glad it does – that’s what makes this secret courtyard a sort of refuge. Only those who know it exists go there. Colours burst in wild explosions. It’s the perfect place for a lunch al fresco in the summer or to pop in some of the several shops spread around the yard.

Portugal on the edge

Portugal did everything right since it accepted international aid, cutting expenditure and debt. But as growth and employment remain elusive, the danger of a Greek-style default looms large.

In exchange for the €78bn bailout package Lisbon received last May from the European Central Bank (ECB) and the International Monetary Fund (IMF), the government and the main opposition parties agreed to comply with the plan to change the economy. This meant adapting the harshest austerity measures in decades, from making cuts, raising taxes, clawing back on social support and pushing for privatisations.

The problem is that without growth, reducing the national debt is very unlikely. You can slash expenses, but with lower income it’s hard to set money aside to pay off a large debt. An outstanding 14.8% unemployment rate – top of the OECD list after Spain and Greece – only makes this worse. In a nutshell, these are the main reasons why the Portuguese economy hasn’t been able to break free of financial crisis. The Eurozone crisis is only prolonging the suffering.